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Van Toller and Dodd, Perfumery
My notes on Perfumery, Steve Van Toller and George H. Dodd, eds.
7
Thus the insignificant little sea-squirt [...] will upon taking the sexual products of another individual into its pharynx in its feeding current, almost immediately respond by releasing its own sexual products into its exhalent current.
29
Conventional oils (even if they are extracted by expression or by the use of liquid [supercritical!!1!] carbon dioxide) [...]
37
The main odour found in simple aliphatic esters R2-COO-R1
[...] The aim of the work was to discover the main odour notes. These were: E ethereal, F fruity, M minty. When more than two descriptors are used, the dominant note is shown first. Many of the esters showed minor notes, e.g. humus, earthy; but these are not recorded here.
45
We also have, for the first time, smells which can completely abolish the sense of smell. [Dodd, "Studies on a new class of olfactory inhibitors". 1988 ECRO Symposium.]
45
[...] a class of unusual perfume molecules, described by some people as having the most disagreeable smells they have ever encountered [...] [Jenner, Wood, and Dodd (1987), "Spectral interactions of isonitrile odorants with hepatic and olfactory cytochrome P-450 mono-oxygenase". Biochem. Soc. Trans., 15, 562-3.]
56
[...] in men, the level of 5α-androstenone from one axilla (`superior') was significantly higher than from the other (`inferior').
81
[...] showed that children ranging in age from 18 months to 3 years would give raw egg whites, vinegar (50 per cent) and a strong salt solution (two tablespoons of salt in a cup of water) higher and higher ratings as they were rewarded for eating them. [Gauger (1929), The Modifiability of Responses to Taste Stimuli in the Preschool Child. Contributions to Education No. 348, Teacher College, Columbia University, New York.]
123
It begins to explain how with the evolution and development of the other sensory systems, plus the developing cognitive abilities, humans lost their dependency on the phylogenetically old sense of smell. We might wonder if this could be the basis for the human `expulsion' out of the Garden of Eden?
132
[...] the change in response to the smell of valerian which, to the modern nose, has a penetrating `goaty' or sweaty smell. During the sixteenth century valerian was considered to be a pleasant perfume and was placed among clothes and used extensively as medicine. At this period body smells would have been strong [...] Perhaps the smell of valerian served to attenuate or round-off the sharpness of body odour?
133
Approximately 50 per cent of the population cannot detect [5-alpha-androstan-3-one]. Of the remaining 50 per cent who are able to detect it, approximately 25 per cent find it pleasant and the remaining 25 per cent find it very unpleasant.
[...]
A subsequent presentation of androstenone elicited the same pattern, i.e. a clear skin response, but denial of having received the smell.
[...]
In the case of the subjects we are now discussing, they would suddenly say something like `this is the smell you gave me in the cubicle during the experiment'. They were always at a loss to say why they had denied receiving the odour during the recording part of the experiment. With the first one or two subjects who showed this effect, we were baffled for the explanation, but subsequently came to realize that this class of subjects had no verbal label or category in which to place the odour.
135
The left nostril initially communicates with the left hemisphere, and the right nostril initially communicates with the right hemisphere.
138
[...] subjects could reliably indicate which nostril was being stimulated when menthol and carbon dioxide [trigeminal stimulants] were being used, but the reliability levels fell to chance levels when the subjects were asked to indicate which nostril was receiving a pure odour.
156
More recently, Lawson (1985), a general practitioner, has asserted that many ailments commonly encountered in general practice are caused by intolerance to the harsh odours of commercial air fresheners.
201
In the last two or three years the fantasy wave has produced its own trend group: the `fun-type' or `ultras'. [...] On the basis of their presentation of themselves, they can undoubtedly be assigned to personality group D (see above). In their `get-up', their `gear', they overdo it, and by bourgeois standards they are `crazy'. The fun-type loves the fast rhythms of soul music and `uppers' (stimulants) of all kinds. Their goal, ultimately, seems to be hyper-stimulation to overcome boredom. One could say that, without their being consciously aware, they live with a `future-less' mentality, in and `end-of-the-world' (`eleventh hour') atmosphere. In other words, they are ready to try anything and everything as possible consumers.
214
Among the toilet soaps used there were three different ways in which one could actually achieve a good toilet soap by the use of the perfumes. First, through its being naturally fresh; secondly, through its being fragrantly cool; and thirdly, because it is creamily feminine.
256
Zuckermann, M. (1979) Sensation Seeking: Beyond the Optimal Level of Arousal, Erlbaum, Hillside, NJ.
7
Thus the insignificant little sea-squirt [...] will upon taking the sexual products of another individual into its pharynx in its feeding current, almost immediately respond by releasing its own sexual products into its exhalent current.
29
Conventional oils (even if they are extracted by expression or by the use of liquid [supercritical!!1!] carbon dioxide) [...]
37
The main odour found in simple aliphatic esters R2-COO-R1
R1: Me Et Pr Bu Pe iso-Pe iso-Bu iso-Pr sec-Bu tert-Bu R2 Me e e/f e/f e/f e/f f/e f/e f/e f/e m/e Et f/e f/e f f f f f/e f/e/m f/m/e m Pr f/e f/e f f f f f/e f/m/e f/m m Bu f/e f/e f f f f f f f m/f Pe f/e f/e f/e f/e f/e f f f f/m m iso-Pe f/e f f f f f f m/f m m iso-Bu f/e f f f f f/m m/f m m m tert-Bu f/m m f/m f/m f/m f/m f/m f f/m m
[...] The aim of the work was to discover the main odour notes. These were: E ethereal, F fruity, M minty. When more than two descriptors are used, the dominant note is shown first. Many of the esters showed minor notes, e.g. humus, earthy; but these are not recorded here.
45
We also have, for the first time, smells which can completely abolish the sense of smell. [Dodd, "Studies on a new class of olfactory inhibitors". 1988 ECRO Symposium.]
45
[...] a class of unusual perfume molecules, described by some people as having the most disagreeable smells they have ever encountered [...] [Jenner, Wood, and Dodd (1987), "Spectral interactions of isonitrile odorants with hepatic and olfactory cytochrome P-450 mono-oxygenase". Biochem. Soc. Trans., 15, 562-3.]
56
[...] in men, the level of 5α-androstenone from one axilla (`superior') was significantly higher than from the other (`inferior').
81
[...] showed that children ranging in age from 18 months to 3 years would give raw egg whites, vinegar (50 per cent) and a strong salt solution (two tablespoons of salt in a cup of water) higher and higher ratings as they were rewarded for eating them. [Gauger (1929), The Modifiability of Responses to Taste Stimuli in the Preschool Child. Contributions to Education No. 348, Teacher College, Columbia University, New York.]
123
It begins to explain how with the evolution and development of the other sensory systems, plus the developing cognitive abilities, humans lost their dependency on the phylogenetically old sense of smell. We might wonder if this could be the basis for the human `expulsion' out of the Garden of Eden?
132
[...] the change in response to the smell of valerian which, to the modern nose, has a penetrating `goaty' or sweaty smell. During the sixteenth century valerian was considered to be a pleasant perfume and was placed among clothes and used extensively as medicine. At this period body smells would have been strong [...] Perhaps the smell of valerian served to attenuate or round-off the sharpness of body odour?
133
Approximately 50 per cent of the population cannot detect [5-alpha-androstan-3-one]. Of the remaining 50 per cent who are able to detect it, approximately 25 per cent find it pleasant and the remaining 25 per cent find it very unpleasant.
[...]
A subsequent presentation of androstenone elicited the same pattern, i.e. a clear skin response, but denial of having received the smell.
[...]
In the case of the subjects we are now discussing, they would suddenly say something like `this is the smell you gave me in the cubicle during the experiment'. They were always at a loss to say why they had denied receiving the odour during the recording part of the experiment. With the first one or two subjects who showed this effect, we were baffled for the explanation, but subsequently came to realize that this class of subjects had no verbal label or category in which to place the odour.
135
The left nostril initially communicates with the left hemisphere, and the right nostril initially communicates with the right hemisphere.
138
[...] subjects could reliably indicate which nostril was being stimulated when menthol and carbon dioxide [trigeminal stimulants] were being used, but the reliability levels fell to chance levels when the subjects were asked to indicate which nostril was receiving a pure odour.
156
More recently, Lawson (1985), a general practitioner, has asserted that many ailments commonly encountered in general practice are caused by intolerance to the harsh odours of commercial air fresheners.
201
In the last two or three years the fantasy wave has produced its own trend group: the `fun-type' or `ultras'. [...] On the basis of their presentation of themselves, they can undoubtedly be assigned to personality group D (see above). In their `get-up', their `gear', they overdo it, and by bourgeois standards they are `crazy'. The fun-type loves the fast rhythms of soul music and `uppers' (stimulants) of all kinds. Their goal, ultimately, seems to be hyper-stimulation to overcome boredom. One could say that, without their being consciously aware, they live with a `future-less' mentality, in and `end-of-the-world' (`eleventh hour') atmosphere. In other words, they are ready to try anything and everything as possible consumers.
214
Among the toilet soaps used there were three different ways in which one could actually achieve a good toilet soap by the use of the perfumes. First, through its being naturally fresh; secondly, through its being fragrantly cool; and thirdly, because it is creamily feminine.
256
Zuckermann, M. (1979) Sensation Seeking: Beyond the Optimal Level of Arousal, Erlbaum, Hillside, NJ.