all the LED ones have that horrid nails-on-chalkboard flicker If you use a different power supply than just plugging them into a wall outlet you could change the frequency of the flicker. I presume they're just in several passive circuits with a bunch of LEDs in series with a resistor (as that's the cheapest way of doing this) but I've not carefully looked at any of them. Assuming this is true you could just use a 600 hz 120v power supply and you'd lose the obvious flicker (It would still be detectable with movement). If all of the LEDs were in the circuit in one direction (which I would hope they're not since failing to do so doubles the AC power requirements, but you could always rewire the strands) then you could just use a good DC power supply and have no flicker. Some ropelights are powered from DC so that they can be cut to length and (assuming a good power supply) should have no flicker.
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timeasmymeasure
no subject
Date: 2011-07-18 02:39 pm (UTC)If you use a different power supply than just plugging them into a wall outlet you could change the frequency of the flicker. I presume they're just in several passive circuits with a bunch of LEDs in series with a resistor (as that's the cheapest way of doing this) but I've not carefully looked at any of them. Assuming this is true you could just use a 600 hz 120v power supply and you'd lose the obvious flicker (It would still be detectable with movement). If all of the LEDs were in the circuit in one direction (which I would hope they're not since failing to do so doubles the AC power requirements, but you could always rewire the strands) then you could just use a good DC power supply and have no flicker. Some ropelights are powered from DC so that they can be cut to length and (assuming a good power supply) should have no flicker.