a try at that Spanish Castle thing
(Shocking-to-me perceptual trick ganked from here.)
I gave it a try and mine sort of works; the indefinite persistence is there, but it doesn't manage full color saturation. It might just be my choice of source image. I could try oversaturating my inverse-color image, but it would clamp very soon. I simply set the inverse-color image's luminance to 50% everywhere; I didn't check to see if that's what the "Spanish castle" one did.
What I'm really fascinated by is what characteristic of the grayscale information of the image is needed to make the color afterimage persist. It can't possibly work with a flat gray field, right? But it does work with the castle's sky. So maybe it works with a grayscale gradient, or with a flat area alongside something else in the frame. I should try some of those.
I gave it a try and mine sort of works; the indefinite persistence is there, but it doesn't manage full color saturation. It might just be my choice of source image. I could try oversaturating my inverse-color image, but it would clamp very soon. I simply set the inverse-color image's luminance to 50% everywhere; I didn't check to see if that's what the "Spanish castle" one did.
What I'm really fascinated by is what characteristic of the grayscale information of the image is needed to make the color afterimage persist. It can't possibly work with a flat gray field, right? But it does work with the castle's sky. So maybe it works with a grayscale gradient, or with a flat area alongside something else in the frame. I should try some of those.
no subject
no subject
I think yours works as well as any others I've seen -- it's just the castle has a lot of high-contrast areas, where a little color goes a long way.
no subject
--as beaq mentioned, a lot of high-contrast areas, where a little color goes a long ways
--A great way to accompish the above is to choose an image in which the center of focus is surrounded by a low-detail (low value contrast) field of a complementary hue. The castle image uses this technique with the amber hue of the stonework contrasting with the blue of the sky. This makes both colors stand out better.
--The greyscale image should have a lot of high-value (whiter than medium grey) areas of color; the since you cannot move your eyes from the dot, it is only the lighter and brighter (high-value, high-saturation) areas that will be visible in the peripheral areas.
--Important: the dot should be on the center of focus (high-contrast/detail) for the picture, otherwise your eye will be drawn away from the dot, destroying the effect. Strong colors, especially reds, will attract focus and should only be used carefully: if reds are used, keep them near the dot.
--keeping the previous point in mind, the dot should still be close to or at the center (as you have done); an consistant amount of periphery is less likely to draw the focus away from the dot.
complementary color pairs in RGB: blue/amber; purple/green; red/aqua
no subject
no subject
Neat!
no subject
no subject
no subject
If you get a grey-scale replacement for the inverse, I'm not remotely surprised at the illusion - you're seeing the afterimage on top of something that's giving you all the fine details (which afterimages tend not to be good at.)
no subject
no subject
What's surprising is that the chroma afterimage when fused into the grayscale seems to persist dramatically longer than an afterimage ordinarily does. Then if you shift your point of fixation it breaks and is gone.
no subject
I didn't get the afterimage to last surprisingly long. But since a lot of people mention it, I wonder if this combines a normal afterimage colour effect with another one. I can't remember what it's called but I read about it somewhere like Scientific American, I'd guess late 1980s. You'd look at horizontal black-and-magenta stripes and vertical black-and-green stripes, and then when you looked at horizontal black and white stripes, they would fill in with green (and vertical with magenta). It wasn't just afterimage, it'd actually last for up to ten minutes - you could go away and do something else and come back to the magazine and yep, the horizontal stripes still looked greenish. Given the greyscale image used here, it sounds related.
no subject
This one is related at the very least in that it's got some of the same kind of color/texture "contingency" going on. The thing that first strikes me as different about this one is that the effect disappears and doesn't come back as soon as you break the luma/chroma alignment, whereas the McC effect you can put through the wash with no harm.
no subject
At least, that all sounds like plausible make-it-up-as-I-go reasoning to me :-).
no subject
no subject
Thanks.